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Nonlinear Modulation of Gravity Waves

Journal of the Physical Society of Japan · 1972 · Vol. 33(3) · pp. 805–811
Hidenori HasimotoHiroaki Ono

Abstract

Slow modulation of gravity waves on water layer with uniform depth is investigated by using singular perturbation methods. It is found, to the lowest order of perturbation, that the complicated system of equations governing such modulation can be reduced to a simple nonlinear Schrödinger equation. A nonlinear plane wave solution to this equation is found to correspond to the so-called Stokes wave. The linear stability of this plane wave solution is essentially determined by the sign of the product of two coefficients in this equation, yielding Benjamin and Whitham's criterion. The same equation is found to give a weak cnoidal wave derived from the Korteweg-de Vries equation in the shallow-water limit.

Ocean Waves and Remote SensingCoastal and Marine DynamicsNonlinear Waves and SolitonsCnoidal wavePhysicsNonlinear systemStokes wavePlane wavePerturbation (astronomy)Mathematical analysisNonlinear Schrödinger equationModulation (music)Classical mechanics
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References
The disintegration of wave trains on deep water Part 1. Theory
Journal of Fluid Mechanics · 1967 · 2,478 citations
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